Garment and method of making same



F .2,1943. J. 1. SE ER 2, 09, 16

GARMENT AND METHOD OF MAKING SAME Filed April 27, 1942 1 INVENTOR I JUQAH z JE/FER ATTORNEY I Patented Feb. 2, 1943 iliTED STATES ATENT OFFICE 2,309,716 GARMENT AND METHOD OF MAKING SAME Judah I. Seifer, New York, N. Y.

Application April 27, 1942, Serial No. 440,609 (01. 2 93)- I 4 Claims.

This invention relates to a method for making garments, and has for its primary object to provide a basic patternconstruction for facilitatin the cutting and preparation for sewing of garments having generally similar patterns, but varying in their cutting lines whereby individual style may be imparted to each garment or to a plurality of garments cut from the same basic pattern.

A further object is to provide a basic pattern construction for garments so arranged that one portion thereof may be rotated around a fixed point; as for instance, the breast point of the finished garment, so that a plurality of distinctly different characteristic styles can be cut from a single piece fabric without departing from the original basic one-piece pattern construction.

A further object is to provide a basic pattern construction for a garment cut entirely in one piece, which will facilitate the cutting and preparation in handling and sewing of garments.

A further object is the provision of a method for making a plurality of different style garments from the same basic pattern construction. 7

A further object is to provide a method for making garments from a single blank of material by which fabrics designed with stripes, checks, or other fancy motifs may be more accurately and advantageously matched than was heretofore possible, thus minimizing if not completely eliminating the difficulties and waste heretofore experienced in making garments of a plurality of independent-pieces of such materials.

Another important object is to provide a garment pattern construction as a guide for cutting one-piece garments having the characteristics above stated. A further object is to provide a novel'method for cutting garments. l

The invention is desirable from the standpoint of large production of garments having varying appearance. Heretofore, large production resulted in production of large numbers of garments identical in appearance. By means ofthe present invention, such large production may be carried out and yet obtain garments having individual distinction; p

The foregoing objects and other objects, features andadvantages of the invention are realized in. the patterns and garments illustrated in the accompanying drawing upon which the following specification is based." in said drawing:

Fig. 1 is a-plan new of a master patternc'onstruction formed in accordance with the present I invention.

Fig. 2 is a front view, in simplified form, of a garment which may be cut from the pattern construction shown in Fig. 1.

Fig; 3 is a fragmentary plan view of a master pattern construction.

Fig. 4 is a similar view of the master pattern construction arranged for cutting either a cutting pattern or a piece of fabric.

Fig. '5 is a similar view of cutting pattern construction or a fabric or cloth cut from the pattern construction of Fig. i.

Fig. 6 is a view similar to Fig. 3 showing another condition of the pattern construction shown in said Fig. 3.

Fig. '7 is a fragmentary view of a fabric or cloth cut from a pattern formed from the master pattern construction of Fig. 6.

Figs. 8, 9 and 10 are fragmentary front views of garments showing various forms thereof made in accordance with the invention.

According to the invention, a master pattern construction I!) is provided. As contemplated, said pattern is so designed as to guide the cutting of a one-piece garment inclusive of sleeves. The

pattern shown comprises a back ll, lower front portions 12, upper front portions I3, and sleeve blanks Id. The lines of fold, in the completed garment, are indicated by the sleeve fold lines 15 and the body fold lines I6.

In the master pattern construction of Fig. l, the lines I! and 18 are seamed as at [9 (of the garment in Fig. 2), in the zone of the waistline: the lines 23 and 24 are seamed at 25, and the lines 20 and 2| are seamed at 22. The edges 26 and 21 form the edges of the front of the garment shown in Fig. 2.

From the pattern construction thus described, a garment as in Fig. 2 may be formed with darts at 35. However, the appearance thereof may be varied in many ways according to the invention, the darts being selectively arranged as hereinafter described.

To this end the master pattern construction is provided with cuts 28 at which terminate cuts 29 and 30 which meet at a point 3| atthe protruding point of the bust or breast. By means of the cuts 29 and 30 a tuck or a seam may be made in the pattern, as can be readily understood. The forming of such a tuck or darted seam will bulge the construction of the pattern or material from its fiatcondition.

..A slit in the master pattern construction is, therefore, provided. Such a slit is shown in Fig.

3 at 32, Fig. 4 indicating how the slit is opened when the tuck or darted seam is formed by swinging the front pattern portion 33 around the breast point 3| to close up the space between lines 28 and 30. This procedure causes the line I! to be broken as indicated, as by the lines Ila, and thus eliminates slits 28 and lines 29 and 30. Now, when a cutting pattern, or a piece of fabric, is cut from the master pattern construction, its form will be as in Fig. 5. It is obvious from this figure, that when the garment is sewed, and a dart formed by the lines 32a and 321), the original contour lines of the master pattern construction will be re-obtained but a breast bulge will be incorporated into the garment to give shape thereto. The dart formed by the lines 32a and 32b is shown in Fig. 8 at 34.

The slit 32 may be arranged at different places, terminating, however, at the breast or bust point 3| in each instance. As shown in Fig. 6, the slit may extend to the front edge, the front portion 330. becoming the part of the pattern construction. It is obvious that the slit may be arranged in many different directions as exemplified by Figs. 2, 9, and 10, wherein (Fig, 2) the dart may be angled as at 35 extending to the neck line and (Fig. 9) extend to the side seam of the garment as at 36.

As shown in Fig. 10, the surplus material spaced between lines 29 and 30 may be gathered to produce shirring as at 31, instead of being cut away, and thus produce the bulge for shaping. Obviously, shirring may be substituted for the darts at any location.

The instant method may becarried out in many ways. It may comprise a direct cutting of the fabric from the master pattern construction with its swingable or pivotal portion 33 or 33a positioned as desired, or first the marking out and forming of a cutting pattern directly on the fabric (Figs. 5 or 7) from the master pattern, and then cutting of the fabric from the cutting pattern construction thus formed.

After the fabric is cut to shape, the darts are formed either by joining together the edges of the gore which had been cut on lines 29, 30 or 32a, 32b, or by forming a tuck to produce the dart; or the material may be gathered as by shirring to produce the dart. Then the blank may be folded, the lower front portions l2 being folded on lines l6 and the sleeve blanks folded along the lines l5 which extend medially from the end of each sleeve to the neckline, and when so folded, forming the shoulders as well as the sleeves of the garment, lines I! of the front portions l3 then meeting and registering with the lines [8 of the folded lower front portions I2. The garment may then be sewn by a single continuous line of stitching on each side of the garment commencing, forinstance, at the edge 21 at the waistline, sewing along lines I! and I8 to the fold line l6, thence along lines 23, 24, and,

thence along lines 20, 2| to the end of the sleeve. The garment is then complete except for any trimming that it might be desired to add.

If it is desired to have shirring along the waistline l9, then the dart formed by lines 3211 and 322) may be cut wider so that the lines I! will be shorter than the lines 18 and the surplus length of lines l8 may be gathered to conform to the length of lines H. Or, instead of shirring, darts may be incorporated in the lower front portions l2 along lines l8. Obviously, too, shirring or darts or tucks may be incorporated anywhere around or through th waistline.

While the invention has been described with respect to the use of a single piece of fabric for the garment blank, it will be understood that if the fabric is too narrow, a seam may be provided down center back of the garment and/or pieces may be added to the ends of the sleeves. It will also be obvious that if it be desired to have more freedom for raising the arms, that an insert of extra material may be added in the area of underarm junctionbetween sleeve and body.

It will also be understood that while the garment as shown in Fig. 2, discloses the front edges of the garment as lapped over, the front edges may be made to meet instead.

From the foregoing, it may be seen that large production of garments may be obtained by use of the present invention from which many practical variations in such garments may be incorporated to individualize such garment as herein before set forth. This disclosure has been as by way of example only, it being obvious that the principles of the invention may readily be practiced in various other ways within the spirit and scope of the invention as claimed.

I claim:

1. A garment blank cut of a single piece of fabric and comprising a back, a lower front portion extending on each side of the back from the zone of the waistline to the bottom edge, a complete sleeve blank extending outwardly from each side of said back from the armpits outwardly, an upper front portion extending upwardly and outwardly from the top of each sleeve blank, a neck opening, a V-dart in each of the upper front portions, with the apex of the darts being at the breast point of the garment and the base of the dart being on or communicating with the free edge of the said upper front portion, said lower front portions being arranged to be folded toward each other onto the back, the sleeve blanks and the upper front portions being arranged to be folded down along the medial line extending from the end of each sleeve to the neck line, whereby the lower edge of the upper front portions and the upper edge of the lower front portions may be united at the waistline, the sides of the upper front portions joined to the said back, and the edges of the sleeve blanks joined along the under center of the sleeve.

2. A garment cut from an integral blank of fabric comprising a back, a lower front portion extending on each side of the back from the zone of the waistline to the bottom edge, a complete sleeve blank extending outwardly from each side of said back from the armpits upwardly, an upper front portion extending upwardly and outwardly from the top of each sleeve blank, a neck opening, a V-dart in each of the upper front portions, with the apex of the darts being at the breast point of the garment and the base of the dart being on or communicating with the free edge of the said upper front portion, said lower front portions being arranged to be folded toward each other onto the back, the sleeve blanks and the upper front portion being arranged to be folded down along the medial line extending from the end of each sleeve to the neck line, the lower edge of the upper front portions being joined at the waistline to the upper edge of the lower front portions, and the sides of the upper front portions being joined to the back, and the edges of the sleeve blanks being joined together along the under-center of the sleeves.

3. A garment cut from an integral blank of fabric comprising a back, a lower front portion extending on each side of the back from the zone of the waistline to the bottom edge, a complete sleeve blank extending outwardly from each side of said back from the armpits upwardly, an upper front portion extending upwardly and outwardly from the top of each sleeve blank, a neck opening, a V-dart in each of the upper front portions, with the apex of the darts being at the breast point of the garment and the base of the dart being on or communicating with the free edge of the said upper front portion, said lower front portions being arranged to be folded toward each other onto the back, the sleeve blanks and the upper front portions being arranged to be folded down alon the medial line extending from the end of each sleeve to the neck line, one continuous seam on each side of the garment extending horizontally along the zone of the waistline, joining the upper and lower front portions, vertically along the side of the garment joining the upper front portion to the back from the waistline to the armpits, and horizontally along the undercenter of the sleeves joining both edges of the sleeve blank.

4. A garment out from an integral blank of fabric comprising a back, a lower front portion extending on each side of the back from the zone of the waistline to the bottom edge, a complete sleeve blank extending outwardly from each side of said back from the armpits upwardly, an upper front portion extending upwardly and outwardly from the top of each sleeve blank, a neck opening, a dart formed by a series of tucks or gathers extending from the free outer edge of an upper front, portion and converging at the breast points of the garment, said lower front portions being arranged to be folded toward each other onto the back, the sleeve blanks and the upper front portions being arranged to be folded down along the medial line extending from the end of each sleeve to the neck line, one continuous seam on each side of the garment extending horizontally along the zone of the waistline, joining the upper and lower front portions, vertically along the side of the garment joining the upper front portion to the back from the waistline to the armpits, and horizontally along the undercenter of the sleeves joining both edges of the sleeve blank.

JUDAH I. SEIFER. 

